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FBMX BMX Forum / Name This Forum / frame specifics Moderated by mattesque  
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Message Pages:  1 2
Kostya
the streets is calling

From: NV LOC
Posts: 58
Consider this a preference survey of sorts...

What are your particular preferences when it comes to a BMX frame? Consider geometry (especially chainstay length, head tube angle and BB height), weight (is there such a thing as too light?), and specific design aspects, most importantly:
-Brakes. Where do they mount (chainstays or seatstays), and are they even necessary? Fixed or removable mounts? Gyro tabs?
-Chain tensioners (considering they are compact and stay out the way on grinds)
-Seatpost (mostly, do you adjust your seat height or simply slam it and let it be?)
Any others are welcome to be included, but these are of particular importance.

Also, where have you seen or had frames fail (crack, break, etc.)?

Any input is greatly appreciated. Cheers!


_______________________________________
Under-radar

Dec. 01, 2010 12:35 PM
   
j
Administrator

From: Vancouver Chinatown
Posts: 3267
I think a light frame is nice but a bike that flexes feels like shit.

Built in tensioners are awesome, makes life easy. People say you don't need them but those same people also hate ever taking their wheel off because it takes them 20 minutes to get it back in straight.

I think it's obvious that everyone is A: doing tons of hop barspins and B: running huge bars. This is some of the reason behind the popularity of 21"+ frame sizes, shorter stems and 75 degree headtube angles which both keep your bars just a little bit further away from your knees when you throw them.

Brakes on the SS. It's possible that CS might be better when rolling forwards but in my experience when it matters on abubucas or whatever you're wheel is trying to roll backwards which makes SS better.

My seat is slammed on a built in post but I wish it was higher. The problem is that a highish built in pivotal post looks great on a built up bike, and it's easier to cut off, but it looks like crap when the frame is on the wall or alone in a photo.

Shouldn't matter but sometimes what the photo looks like is more important to people than the frames features. Happens all the time, people say 'those dropouts look like shit' when they follow the contours of a peg perfectly.


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Dec. 01, 2010 1:20 PM
   
Kostya
the streets is calling

From: NV LOC
Posts: 58
I've had problems with my dropouts actually being larger than the peg diameter (aka I slam/grind the dropout first instead of the peg or hub guard and crimp my dropout closed)... Very annoying to have to deal with on a $500 dollar frame that's a week old. Dropout/peg interfacing is important but at times overlooked... Good call

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Under-radar

Dec. 01, 2010 1:58 PM
   
Kostya
the streets is calling

From: NV LOC
Posts: 58
Think of the question more among the lines of "what qualities would your dream bike possess?"

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Under-radar

Dec. 01, 2010 2:07 PM
   
djfivejames
valuable member

From: Guildford
Posts: 2189
Personally, I like a steeper head angle (75 degrees) rather then the standard 74.5 most frames have.  This makes it easier to do nose wheelies and things like that.  You have to watch out though because the potential will be there to be pitched right over the bars as it takes less effort to get the back end up.
Short rear ends are also one thing I really like in a frame.  anything from 13.25-13.5 is good, basically if its longer then standard 13.75 you're good.  It pops up easier for manuals.  Surprisingly, shorter back ends are also much easier to balance for brakeless manuals, helping you keep from looping out.
I'm not a fan of having a built in seatpost, as you never know if you might want to try some old school stuff one day.  It's all about variety and the potential for changing things around every once and a while.  Same goes for gyro tabs.  Have them pre-drilled, that way if you want them, you can have them.  If not, leave them out.  You've always got the potential to have them if you want them down the road.  Same goes ofr brake mounts.
Seat stay mounted brakes are for sure the best way to go.  Chain stay one always seem to be just to close to the chain on smaller ratios, making a really annoying banging sound.  This can be fixed by running your chain supper tight, but you will wreak your driver bearings.
Like J says, built in chain tensioners are fantastic.  If you use them, they are there.  If you don't like them, just take the like screws out.
Lightness is nice in certain amounts.  you want it to be light but you also want it to be strong.  4.5 ish pounds is a good benchmark for me, as I am not a weight weeny at all.  I also prefer more low slung frames, which have shorter seat tubes.  However, nothing to crazy like that frame from BlackEye.  That's going much too far.  The extra clearance makes tricks like no-fotted cancans easier, plus it looks clean.  And yes having nice small drop outs is really nice, as they stay clear of the pegs.  They make grinds feel way smoother too.  Most modern frames that are meant for peg use have drop out that stay clear of the peg.  Sometimes its the pegs fault though, if you have really slim pegs.


_______________________________________
"The best BMXer is the one that's having the most fun." - Sergio Layos

Dec. 04, 2010 9:02 PM
   
Steeze
Style with ease

From: Bear Creek
Posts: 361
Sorry, that whole post was my preferences.  I have no idea what James likes in a frame.  Having your brother log you out can be annoying some times. :D  Just in case James modifies that post I'll post what I said here.

Personally, I like a steeper head angle (75 degrees) rather then the standard 74.5 most frames have.  This makes it easier to do nose wheelies and things like that.  You have to watch out though because the potential will be there to be pitched right over the bars as it takes less effort to get the back end up.
Short rear ends are also one thing I really like in a frame.  anything from 13.25-13.5 is good, basically if its longer then standard 13.75 you're good.  It pops up easier for manuals.  Surprisingly, shorter back ends are also much easier to balance for brakeless manuals, helping you keep from looping out.
I'm not a fan of having a built in seatpost, as you never know if you might want to try some old school stuff one day.  It's all about variety and the potential for changing things around every once and a while.  Same goes for gyro tabs.  Have them pre-drilled, that way if you want them, you can have them.  If not, leave them out.  You've always got the potential to have them if you want them down the road.  Same goes ofr brake mounts.
Seat stay mounted brakes are for sure the best way to go.  Chain stay one always seem to be just to close to the chain on smaller ratios, making a really annoying banging sound.  This can be fixed by running your chain supper tight, but you will wreak your driver bearings.
Like J says, built in chain tensioners are fantastic.  If you use them, they are there.  If you don't like them, just take the like screws out.
Lightness is nice in certain amounts.  you want it to be light but you also want it to be strong.  4.5 ish pounds is a good benchmark for me, as I am not a weight weeny at all.  I also prefer more low slung frames, which have shorter seat tubes.  However, nothing to crazy like that frame from BlackEye.  That's going much too far.  The extra clearance makes tricks like no-fotted cancans easier, plus it looks clean.  And yes having nice small drop outs is really nice, as they stay clear of the pegs.  They make grinds feel way smoother too.  Most modern frames that are meant for peg use have drop out that stay clear of the peg.  Sometimes its the pegs fault though, if you have really slim pegs.


Dec. 04, 2010 9:05 PM
   
Rattman
New Member

From: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 11
Im old school.... 74.5 is good enough. 30 pounds is too light. Internal headsets are a no brainer but if there is a problem now its time for a $500 frame. No brakes are gay. Not tricking with no brakes but riding safely I mean. Crashing into kids at the park isnt going to make skaters like us much more than they already do. Microdrive should have been mandatory 15 years ago. Free coasters are awesome.(Ron) Four piece bars are what I ride. Front brakes. Triple walled 48's(Yes I still do street gaps) 14 mm axles on the front (Nothing like clipping a sub-box and snapping one when youre in the middle of no-where on a trip and then trying to find one for your hub. I could go lighter than the 36 pound Miron Im riding but then I'd get weaker and more sketchy.....lol
   Small dropouts must cover the hub at least, unless you like broken spokes. Light pegs would be preferred but Im on some old Hypnotics that Ive had for years of hard feebling....lol As I rarely get to ride nice smooth coping. How many of you running animals or other blended metal pegs can say they last as long as mine?
   Im sure I could get used to a lighter bike but the ones I have ridden have all been kind of sketch with my style. Maybe I pull up too hard? I still hop plenty high. Showed some of the young punks what was up a few weeks ago. If your bike is too heavy hit some weights. Over the years I have went from riding 1 inch headtube Dynos and GT's with small axles to fat headtubes and triple wall 48's. I like my shit to last if youre paying a grand for a custom that you have picked piece by piece. One day I will make the swtich but not this year or even the next if my componentry hold out. All hail the might RB-J1 Araya....lol


Dec. 28, 2010 2:58 PM
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Magee
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Posts: 411
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gracefan
Member

Posts: 244
I think a light frame is nice. Although I'm not a fan of having a built in seatpost, I hope you can try soe old school stuff one day.  It's all about variety and the potential for changing things around us once and a while.

Apr. 15, 2013 12:05 AM
   
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